[Rick Hall]

I much prefer Mojo's old metal wings to the chloroplast magnetic ones and have to remove that adapter from the new mojos's shafts to do so. It attaches to the motor shaft with an allen type set screw just as your current wings do. So if your motor uses the same size shaft Mojo does, which seems likely, it will do the trick for you.

 

[Rick Hall]

I much prefer Mojo's old metal wings to the chloroplast magnetic ones and have to remove that adapter from the new mojos's shafts to do so. It attaches to the motor shaft with an allen type set screw just as your current wings do. So if your motor uses the same size shaft Mojo does, which seems likely, it will do the trick for you.

I recently tried the Lucky Duck Scout model with magnetic chloroplast wings. The decoy is heads above a robo with metal wings. The set up is easier and quicker in the dark of morning or afternoon daylight. The motor is smaller/lighter making the decoy lighter to set up or carry. The wings are lighter, are less stressfull on the motor bearings, and whisper quiet.

My first Mojo held up well to daily use with metal wings (and on a 12v deep cycle with a rheostat) 60 of its 76 days a year for more than a few seasons before being lost overboard this September. Only real noise issue was solved by cinching the loose, clunking battery down or removing it altogether when hard wired to one in the blind. Can't say how long the new one will last, but I like its chances.

And the greatest advantage to the aluminum wings is that they're bolted to the bottoms of their shafts, which does make them slightly out of balance. For me that's a great thing, because it makes it likely they'll stop with the weight of the wings beneath their shafts and, if attached to the shafts correctly, their dark sides up. Meaning I can let the whirligig run for teal and readily stop it with the white out of sight while working big ducks and geese.

(Also camo paint both the wings' dark sides and the decoy body to that same end.)