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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just started doing some reloading with some new Chedditte hulls. I've always used once-fired in the past and have had no problems dialing in good crimps, but these new hulls are kicking my butt. I've got a MEC Supersizer and I keep getting some buckling just above the brass or at the hull.

I read once some people heat up the new hulls a little, but don't remember what they did it. Any other tips for getting them to crimp for the first time?
 

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Couple things you can do here.

First…are the hulls skived?…if not you should do so. Second…you can get a metal crimp starter for new hulls. This tends to 'cut' in the new folds a bit better.

I load with a P&W and have added these to all my gauge sets but I think you can also get them for a MEC.

Second, crushed hulls tell me your not 'set' right on your press. Back all the way off on your 'cam' at first and see if this helps. Then address the depth.

If after all of this (and the load is not too full for hull) you still crush the hull, you'll need to 'support' it. I have full length dies on my P&W so I don't crush hulls. You can do this still with a MEC with the properly cut length of PVC tube. Just cut it long enough to support the hull but with enough room at the top to allow the crimp tool to do it's work.

Hope all that made sense.
 

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Hold the crimp starter down for good length of time, and don't waste any time getting it to final crimp. If you're still having problems back off a tad on the final station and check to make sure your press is perfectly aligned. The slightest angle to it can consistently buckle hulls. You can try adding a touch more wad pressure and check your wad length. You might need to shave a tad off the top of them. I've never had to skiv hulls to get them to crimp properly, and I don't like to becuase it helps them to crack sooner. Most new cheddites are already skived though.
 

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Don't skive the new hulls. I load both new 2 3/4 and 3" Cheddite hulls all the time on Mec Jrs and have no problem in buckling. What load and size shot are you using. If you are using big shot you may have to remove a few pellets. Also try 80 lb force on seating the shot cup. You can also apply 80 lb force to the shot using a short piece of wood dowel. My biggest problem is that new crimped hulls want to open up so I move the cam screw all the way to the front of the cam slot and recrimp giving a nice round crimp . Or you can set the final crimped shell on a powder insert at the final crimp station and bull noze the crimp by feel. Be careful or you will buckle the hull. Good luck, Ned S
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the response. These are already "skived" according to precisionreloading. I have been doing the same crimp start that I do for my once fired and the crimps don't start very well with the standard plastic crimp starter. I think I'll try the hold crimp starter in place and really work it down first and if that doesn't work buy the metal crimp starter. Ouch, that thing is going to run $30. I will check the alignment of the press. What method go you guys use to check the alignment? In the past, I've just run a loading shell under it to see how it changes the crimp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ned,

Are you using a standard MEC crimp starter? This is for a 20ga load I'm doing and that is compounding the problem of shaping the plastic in a little bit smaller area. I am putting about 80lbs of pressure on the shotcut and using a little bit of a spacer inside the cup. I'm fairly confident that my volume and spacing is good. I think I need to use a bit more finesse in getting a decent crimp start and crimp instead of cranking them out like typical once fired that I've done a thousand times.
 

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Sorry, I was talking 12 gage. I would start crimp so a hole about the size of wood pencil is in the start crimp. Try going down on the start crimp twice. The other suggestions used on 12 gage hull should help with the 20 gages also. I use to load 20 gages but not Chedddite hulls. Good Luck, Ned S.
 

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I once watched a show on television touring Federal's ammo plant,
and they had a good view of the shotshells being crimped on the automated machinery.
What it did was give the new hulls taper crimp "before" the start crimp.It's sort of like the really early stages of a roll crimp in appearance (you can get the same effect on a 600 with the cam all the way on), run it in the final die "before" the start crimper, to roll the edge inwards.
That's how federal does their ammo, so that's how i do my brand new hulls, works well.
But you'll want to do the taper crimp/start crimp an a batch, then turn the cam all the way off, crimp em, then turn the cam back on, and taper em all for the final,or you risk buckling, you can't crimp and taper at the same time, too much pressure on the hulls walls.takes 3 cam moves to finish a shell, so you'll want to do them in lots,so to speak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was able to get some good 20ga crimps last night and learned a couple things.

1- The mec brass crimp starter is much better than the plastic crimp starter. Tried the plastic one and did not get nearly as good of crimps, it also adds dents in the hull in the side wall that contribute to some buckling. Adding some lube to the crimp starter really helped as well.

2- Ended up going with Ultramag's method to get the best crimps, which is: Load up components; taper the very top of the hull inward; crimp start with a brass crimp starter; disable the cam and crimp (press down just until the crimp starts heading into the hull if you go further, you're left with a hole in the crimp); enable the cam and slowly finish the crimp which means 2 or 3 partial crimps before the completed crimps. Takes forever with a single hull, so best to do it in groups.

3- Rigid wads give better crimps than non-rigid wads. The sam1 20ga wad gave a lot better crimps than the B&P 20 wad (which is the same as the CSD020). If you are wondering which wad for 20ga reloading steel or hevi, go with the sam1 IMO.

4- I will never buy new 20ga hulls again if I don't have to. They are not worth the extra work and will likely not save you much money.

Thanks for all the tips and help.
 

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Wow, what a waste of time. Sucks that's how you had to make it work. I have new cheddite 20 gauge hulls and haven't had this problem, so I'm curious what recipes were you loading? I wouldn't want to bother with all that either.
 
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