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Ok I have a couple of questions about repainting my jon boat. I'm in the process of sanding it down and this is where my first question comes to play. I have been doing the sanding with a handheld sander, I also have a angle grinder. I have tried a little of both and the angle grinder seems to make the aluminum more rough than the handheld. I'm using the same grit sand paper so I know thats not it. Both are 50 grit. Any advice on this?
The second question is paint and primer. Since I am sanding it down first do I need primer? and for paint i was going to use krylon, does anyone else have any different suggestions? Thanks for any help you might be able to give.
 

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Personally I don't get that aggressive with sanding and aluminum boat, especially if it's a work boat, or duck/fishing boat. I don't use vibrating or electric sanders on them either if they are riveted. The rivets can, and often do shake loose, causing it to develop leaks.
I sand over the loose areas, trying to get the flaky stuff off.
The other areas I lightly scuff. You can get aluminum primer and just spot prime the areas that need it.
I use Pettit Paint dead dull grass, so I'm not familiar with the other stuff. That's just my method.
 

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I agree...get the flaky stuff off and scotch brite the rest. I usually end up painting my boat every 2-3 years. I use Parker (hunter green) as a base and float in other colors with stencils made out of cardboard. I've been using Parker for quite some time and i am happy with it....just make sure you give it a good shake/stir - good luck!
 

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I am doing the same thing right now and I am using a Duplicolor primer. It is a self-etching primer or metal and it is like $3 per spray can. seames to be holding good. We'll see after i put my rhino linner on the gunwalls, seat tops, and floor.
 

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I just got done repainting mine about 1 month ago..
I simply sanded off the loose stuff and roughed up the rest, primed the spots of bare metal then used stump's method of painting guns on my boat..

I used the krylon camo stuff and it has held up to a few runs and some launches for fishing already but no idea about how it will hold up in hunting conditions....
 

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CDH made a great point about boats with rivets. Electric sanders can cause vibration damage. There is a paint product called WILLBOND that you can wipe on after you remove any loose paint. This bonding product will allow your primer to adhere to the old surface and newly exposed areas. The cost is less than twenty dollars for a quart. A quart will be enough for most boats, this stuff goes a long way. Good quality oil based paints are best for harsh boating conditions. There are several good suppliers.
 

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The one thing I learned was sand everything smooth if you want it to last and not look tacky. i went to an autobody paint store and told them what I wanted to do and they set me up. I used a hand sander on my whole boat.. Its time consuming but worth it.
 

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If it's your duck boat, I'll agree with the previous answers. Only to add-
Aluminum will oxidize almost instantly. The resulting layer is very difficult to bond to. That layer needs to be removed prior to finishing, ideally with sanding. Scotch brite is plenty heavy. Most important thing is get it coated ASAP, as the oxidation is already forming. Use an etching primer for non-ferrous.
 

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If the boat was already painted and it is sticking well just rough up as mentiond and this will act as your primer. If bare metal, rough up, prime or spot prime bare spots first. Wipe down with acetone to get any redisual oils, particles or oxidation As you spray paint, there will be overspray if you dont have a ventelation system. So paint in sections and periodically wipe down again with very clean cloth. That way in two years you are not having lots of flaking of paint. :thumbsup:
 

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the way we painted stuff like that at a body shop was to scrape all of the loose paint off, sand it with some light grit sand paper like 400, run a scotch brite over it, primer it, sand the high spots out of the primer, then paint it.
 
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