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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In my RSI manual Vol. 8 No.1 There are references towards felt spacers on Pg.5, 22, and 26 that would lead one to believe that felt spacers are optional in all recipes, and are only used to adjust the height of the shot column to facilitate a good crimp.

But at the same time, there are references that indicate you MUST follow the recipes to the "T". Which would lead you to believe that felt spacers cannot be used whenever you want.

The load that brings this into question is RSI#133. Which calls for a felt spacer over the shot, which I can't believe would lend itself to good patterns, I loaded them with the felt spacer under the shot, and had excellent crimps, but want to be sure that felt under the payload will not significantly increase pressure? Pg. 5, and 22, would seem to indicate that this is the case.

Help anyone? MAybe I need to call RSI?

Thanks,

Brian
 

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I had the same question. Loaded up a few rounds and putting all the felt spacers under the shot created a big cushion and decreased my velocity by as much as 100 ft/s. In my experience, felt on top of the shot has affected the pattern and a shotcard on top will really mess with the pattern. I switched to using precision fiber wads that you can get in 1/2 inch and then just tear them apart to get your custom spacer (bonus is they cost about 1/10 the felt). They are so light and disintegrate so easily, I think the shot just plows through them. I have noticed a much less pattern effect with them on top vs felt. I even switched to them on bottom with no change on velicity or pattern.
 

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I use nothing but fiber fillers in the RSI loads but only underneath the shot. These fillers are left over from early days of reloading lead before plastic. You can even use peanut foam which works fine. I have found that fiber over the shot disturbs my patterns. You can also use cork. I have bought 1/8" and 1/4" thick cork sheets at Hobbly Lobby on sale and cut them into 9/16" squares on a paper cutter. Squares work just as well as the round ones. I seat them with a 1/2" wood dowel with a wood door pull on it. Good luck, Ned S
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So the felt spacer beneath will throw my velocities off?

I think the RSI manual is confusing, and not as straight forward as it could be.

I should just stick with the one recipe I've had good luck with, and that's RSI 131 laoded with #2 steel. Patterns great to 40 yards, and does well with geese, and ducks

I'm running low on RSI wads, maybe its time to get a different manual? Is there a manual and wads that do not rely so heavily on the use of spacers, or are spacers a necessary evil?

Thanks,

Brian
 

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Yeah, I get published velocites with felt filler wads too.

You'll find them to be a part of every recipe really. A 1 1/8 recipe loaded with BB that doesn't need a spacer/filler will need one if you load the same recipe with #4. There's less space between the smaller pellets so they occupy less space. This is part of how I determine which loads I shoot. I choose the shot sizes I'd like to shoot in a given recipe because of its weight and speed, load a few to make sure I won't need any filler wads with those sizes, then I see how they pattern, and if they pass those tests I velocity test them to make sure I'm getting what I thought I was.

I don't like to have to use fillers. It's just another step and I avoid it if I can. So I rarely shoot the same recipe at ducks and geese. I make an exception on a couple, just because the recipe is so effective, but I'll never make a habit of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Interesting,

Where, and when I hunt, the potential for ducks and geese in the same hunt is very likely, and does happen frequently. So, I've really been attempting to find a good load for both that I can stick with for a while. Given the area that I hunt, I do not go through alot of shells in a year 200 rounds is the extreme. So, I feel that reloading many different recipes is not practical.

HA HA, I know I say that, but I'll always be tinkering if there is a reloading manual available.

So, as I understand, the fiber wad is totally up to the reloader as to the necessity of it? It does not in fact affect barrel pressure?

Thanks,

Brian
 

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Correct it is all about crimp for the most part. I sometimes use them or don't dependent on the crimp and I load some stuff that doesn't fall in their shot size list like I may not use one in a load of #3 that calls for one in #3 and smaller. I have also loaded BB in a load only listed up to #1. I find there is just a little bit of flexibility. If I am border line on a load calling for a felt I try one without just to see. I do not load any load with a felt over the shot; maybe they are okay, but I don't like the idea and I have no problem finding loads I like without doing it. I don't know why you can't put two under, but they say not to so I don't, but I am curious what it does and why. Maybe the shot is too high in the wad and blows out to tumbles the wad or something. I wouldn't think it would be a pressure thing, but I don't know for sure. I may have to call them some time.
 

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I have found a few loads that do great in my guns with only a change to shot size, RSI 64, 65, and 75. I am basically only loading two main loads and playing with a few others for fun and to see what I can find with some other hulls when I can find them laying around. I could get by with RSI 75 in 3, 1, and BB, or even 3 and BB if I had to. I like my 2 3/4" GM loads with 3 and 4 a lot so I load both hulls and wads.

I don't really think there is one great load for duck and geese. I had good luck with RSI 75 in #1 shooting a couple ducks this year when I forgot to change out ammo. Over land I wouldn't mind shooting that for mixed birds, but not on the water with the ducks. I never had great patterns or liked how #2 worked on ducks or geese so that wouldn't' be it.

We just change out ammo when needed. We hunt duck holes and fields so we usually get mostly duck or geese and not that many mixed hunts. Also with the goose season the way it is here there is only a small part of the fall that we shoot mixed birds. Then there is the fact that in most spots we do hunt mixed birds we usually get the ducks flying at different times than the geese. I also find that in the duck spots we can hear the geese coming and have cover to change out loads fast and in the fields we can see the duck coming far enough out to change loads. All in all for where and how we hunt one load would be a big handicap. The only problem with load switching is that my Benelli auto has to stay home more when both seasons are open and we expect mixed birds. It is just too hard to change loads fast. The Beretta with the mag cutoff and the pumps are a lot easier to work with and get two loads changed fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm afraid your right. Although I know I've come close with 131 loaded with #2's. I had good success on geese with these shells. out to 40, but not past. 40 yards is a real long shot for us in general.

I would not want to use the 2's for water ducks, or geese. THe 2's don't have enough pattern density to alwyas get a good clean kill on ducks, and not enough oomph for water geese, seems like water geese are always a little longer, so the 2's run out of steam.

I think that 3's or 4's for ducks, and 1's or B's, BB's for geese
 

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You will be able to use 2's in Lightning Steel recipe #1 just fine. Where you live they will kill to 57 yds at 32 F. I killed a few this year with 2's in the same recipe, along with 1's and B's. Ned S
 
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