[dfrench_]

Hey fellow hunters,
I just bought a Franchi Affinity 3, and I shoot skeet and waterfowl with the same gun for the whole waterfowl season. I'm not one to switch back and forth with chokes for the two. Are there any recommendations on which choke I could leave in my gun for both ? Let me know below, Thanks!

 

[HNTFSH]

Hey fellow hunters,
I just bought a Franchi Affinity 3, and I shoot skeet and waterfowl with the same gun for the whole waterfowl season. I'm not one to switch back and forth with chokes for the two. Are there any recommendations on which choke I could leave in my gun for both ? Let me know below, Thanks!

As a Skeet shooter and waterfowler why aren't you changing chokes? Or changing them based on the need? Doesn't matter what gun.

Personally I often use two different chokes on my O/U hunting and just one on skeet/trap. Skeet/trap is a known distance and the clays the same size whereas as birds aren't.

 

[Rick Hall]

IC

 

[HNTFSH]

IC

Best option for sure. Just know what that means to crips and passers.

 

[dfrench_]

Best option for sure. Just know what that means to crips and passers.

I dont know what that means, could you please explain? Thanks!

 

[dfrench_]

As a Skeet shooter and waterfowler why aren't you changing chokes? Or changing them based on the need? Doesn't matter what gun.

Personally I often use two different chokes on my O/U hunting and just one on skeet/trap. Skeet/trap is a known distance and the clays the same size whereas as birds aren't.

so which choke would you use for skeet and which would you use for ducks?

 

[Specklebelly]

I would go Modified but IC would be a good choice too.

 

[HNTFSH]

so which choke would you use for skeet and which would you use for ducks?

I use in IC for skeet, clays break easy and move kind fast. I use an O/U for everything (clay or bird). On birds, my 1st shot is IC and my follow shot is IMP. That's "generally speaking" with the theory being the birds escaping that 1st shot are always headed away, not closer. Might need a more aggressive pattern on the 2nd or if I have to take a further shot based on their behavior, I'll switch to the IMP because I need to. Even more likely on late season Mallards. Or...if they just aren't working close and a "pass" shot is what I'll be taking. I have options with the only downside being if I take a double up close that IMP usually tears up a little more meat. If one bird is a broke wing crip, I don't want an IC into the decoys either, the tighter pattern might save a decoy full of holes.

Either way, it's why "it depends" on where you're hunting and what type of ducks. If I was woody hunting it would be IC/IC because they're harder to hit, are normally low light and they're small birds. If I'm hunting a late season Mallard on an unfrozen creek and pass shooting their flying that traffic pattern, probably IC/IMP. If I'm hunting spooked Mallards from a field blind probably IMP/IMP.

My preference isn't just O/U based, when I shot a Beretta Silver Mallard, my shells were stacked IC/IMP/IMP for most of the same reasons. Same for Pheasant (which is even more applicable)

Advice right or wrong, it sounds like you shoot more clays than birds. That means you should now think harder about chokes.

 

[plainsman]

find an adjustable like the tru glo tian....I got one years ago and am very happy with it!

 

[dfrench_]

find an adjustable like the tru glo tian....I got one years ago and am very happy with it!

I just looked it up and it doesn't offer a Franchi fit. but that sounds pretty cool. thank you

 

[plainsman]

I just looked it up and it doesn't offer a Franchi fit. but that sounds pretty cool. thank you

handy as hell...from a cylinder to full in a second

 

[mudpack]

so which choke would you use for skeet and which would you use for ducks?

SK (Skeet) choke for skeet, and Modified for waterfowl loads.

If you don't want to change chokes (and I can't imagine why you wouldn't...), then Imp Cyl, as Rick suggested, would be a fair compromise.

 

[dfrench_]

SK (Skeet) choke for skeet, and Modified for waterfowl loads.

If you don't want to change chokes (and I can't imagine why you wouldn't...), then Imp Cyl, as Rick suggested, would be a fair compromise.

I get nervous with the changing of chokes, if I dont tighten it enough or too much. I am new to chokes, my last gun was my grandpas and it was already all set up for me when he passed. So I'm looking to ensure I know everything and getting different options on the chokes so I can have as much knowledge as possible. I wrote that at the top because thats what I have been doing, however I really wanted to know what the veteran hunters do and what works for them. Now I have something to go off of at the range and in the marsh.

 

[mudpack]

I get nervous with the changing of chokes, if I dont tighten it enough or too much. I am new to chokes, my last gun was my grandpas and it was already all set up for me when he passed. So I'm looking to ensure I know everything and getting different options on the chokes so I can have as much knowledge as possible. I wrote that at the top because thats what I have been doing, however I really wanted to know what the veteran hunters do and what works for them. Now I have something to go off of at the range and in the marsh.

There is nothing to be afraid of!
Using the choke wrench supplied with your gun (or even an aftermarket wrench), you cannot over-tighten a choke tube PROVIDING YOU DON'T USE ANY ADDITIONAL TOOLS!!! This means no pliers, no pipe wrenches, no extensions.
Use a choke wrench and tighten as tight as you can by hand. It will be perfect.

If I can do it, you can do it.

 

[Tim Terrell]

I'll pick the factory MOD-ified tube every time.

 

[lil dinamo]

IC for skeet and Light-Mod for waterfowl when using hard shot types like steel or tungsten. If I was using Bismuth or one of the other softer shot types I'd probably go with an IM or possibly a full.

If I could only have one choke for everything it would be a LM which would be a little tight for skeet.

As far as tightening the choke in the barrel they really just need to be lightly snug, you don't need to exert a lot of force when installing a choke tube.

Another thing is if you're around water a lot it is a good idea to keep the choke threads clean and lightly lubed in order to keep your chokes from rusting in place in your barrel. It can be a real PITA to remove a choke from the barrel once the threads rust together.

 

[BLK DUC]

Light Modified as thats the sweet spot for Mobil chokes...........

 

[mudpack]

dFrench, after looking at your avatar, and reading your posts again, I have to remind you that when you say you are shooting "skeet", most of us out here assume you mean the organized clay sports game of American Skeet.....not shooting hand-thrown clay birds behind the barn.
If the "skeet" you are shooting is the later type, then put a Modified or Improved Modified tube in your gun and start burning powder.

 

[Specklebelly]

dFrench, after looking at your avatar, and reading your posts again, I have to remind you that when you say you are shooting "skeet", most of us out here assume you mean the organized clay sports game of American Skeet.....not shooting hand-thrown clay birds behind the barn.
If the "skeet" you are shooting is the later type, then put a Modified or Improved Modified tube in your gun and start burning powder.

Great point. This spring I went to a "skeet shoot" at work and it was just a mechanical thrower sending clays into a field.

 

[jaysweet3]

My favorite shotgun is my H&K SBE that has a frozen in IC choke. I shoot that gun at everything very well.