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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am starting to make silos from plastic cardboard. I was looking to see who had made some and if you had pictures of your paint jobs?
 

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I have about 130 silos that were made from ply wood. I am in PA and the geese flock to them like long lost relatives. Make enough to make your spread huge and you wont need any full bodies. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just bought a bunch of the plastic cardboard from a sign shop. They print diplay signs with them like they stick in the side of the road. "JC Penny 20% - 50% off sale" type signs. I got 3 4x8 sheets of 4mm board for $11.50 a board and I just cut 15 silo from one. Its soft and easy to cut. My buddy gave me some stuff from the back of a carpet display and it much tougher but also much harder to cut.
 

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I seem to be the same as the others on here and have made various types out of wood materialbut nothing out of the plastic stuff your speaking about.

Not sure what the stuff is like to try and paint ? Maybe if youuse a piece of sandpaper to scuff it up a bit then try painting it this might help.

Here is a link to some plans I made recently.
http://home.cogeco.ca/%7Ewaterfowler/img/goosetails.jpg

I also took a field shell decoy and traced it onto some wood and cut it out for a pattern and made a bunch. They turned out well and have shot some geese over them. In fact one landed beside one of them and I shot the butt off of the decoy as well.



It sure is enjoyable being in the field and having a bunch of geese coming to into a spead of decoys that you made !

Once you have made some up, don't forget topost up some pictures for us to have a look at.

Any questions on mine please feel free to ship me an email.

sparky
 

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I will take a pic on thursday when I go out hunting. The ones that I have were made out of some sort of particle board and are VERY heavy. Mine are also all magnum size. I have been putting out about 80 and have been doing fine, but I usually dont see any flocks conataining more than 30-40 geese.

That plastic material sounds like one h*** of an idea--i am going to start looking for some!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here is mine being made in progress.

15 here on a 4x8 sheet:


and some of the cutout silos:


I will post paint jobs and templates as I progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I got a buddy that has some store bought silos. I traced his on 1/4" plywood and used them as a pattern. I think the center are copies of some commercially sold stuff and the two outer one are magnums. I am not naming any names to protect the innocent, like me. :mrgreen:

I also have some hawkeyes I patterned to make out of some thick stuff my buddy gave me.

I will PM you my e-mail. I can copy the patterns on large paper and fold then to 11x14 and mail them if you want to make your own.

Here is the finished on with the folder spray patterns I made next to them

The far right template is used to make the white cheek. The one on the top right is used to protect the black neck area when spraying the body. Top left to protect the tail and white from boddy paint. Left middle to protect tail when sprying white belly. And bottom left to spray white belly again if over spray got on it.

I sprayed several to get a pattern of how to make them. I do the black head and tail first. Then the white belly both two coated. Then gray the body and then camo brown the upper and center body. The lightly over spray the brown to lighten it some and fade it into the gray, Very little !!

Here is the finished silo. I have to respray the white cheek. I bought the $1 flat white at walmart and it runs and sucks. The $1 black is good though.


Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I sanded the coroplas with 150 grit paper and made sure the whole thing was dulled up real good.

My next advice, since I am farther in the process, is to fit them with the rods just after painting. I am using welding rods and knocking off the covering. Heating the tip and pushing it in. Then pull it out and heat the last inch quick and back i all the way and let it melt in to stay for eternity.

One thing I learned. Make sure the holes inside run head to tail or parrallel to the ground. The welding rodddoes not want to stay in when the holes are going up. Look at my last picture how you can see slight lines in the gray. Thats how you want the lines to run on yours, or less than 45 degrees from parrallel with the ground.

They are also much easier to paint with the stakes in and out in the yard than on the work bench. I paint one then go to the next and leave them out to dry. As long as its not too windy or cold.
 
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