Finished motor set up to run on 3 gallon fuel tank.

Dog, motor, and a mixed bag limit.

Motor on Carsten Canvasback. Had to get a bigger boat to handle the extra weight. The final attack looked like it was gonna sink with a full load and the motor.

Probably the biggest change from the prototype to this finished motor is the box. Instead of trying to weld up a 6x4 in steel box I bought a 22in section of 6x4in aluminum rectangular tube with 1/8in wall from Discount Steel http://www.onlinemetalstore.com/items/6063_Aluminum_Rectangular_Tube.cfm. The whole set up weighs around 85-90 lbs (I don,t have a good scale to weigh it with). When the boat is fully loaded it will just barley get up on plane and do around 11-12 mph at 4100-4200rpm's with 1.5to1 reduction ratio. Still working some of the bugs out so hopefully I will be able to squeeze a little more power out of the engine when I have things fine tuned.

 

I've followed this thread for awhile, congrats on you work. :thumbsup: Just out of curiousity, where are you located? The background in those pics look similar to the backgrounds in our ND pics...regardless it makes me miss ND already.

Brad

 

Very nice upgrade. That motor looks great on your new boat! :thumbsup:

Did you have to do anything special to switch over to the 3gal tank? Does the motor pull the fuel in on it's own?

Erich

 

that looks great!
i had planned on doing something simular but using 4-1/2" x 1-3/4" aluminum channel. i have 3.55" diameter pulleys. how did you seal the ends of the box? i was thinking about having mine tig welded. also, do you think the bearing mounted in the box is nessecary? i was thinking about using locking collars on my shaft with flange bushings to control the thrust of the prop.
great job!

 

well, i pulled the trigger and ordered some material to start buildind mine. i got a 2 foot length of 5 x 3 x 1/8" aluminum rectangle tubing, a matching cover, 2 ft of 1-1/2" .5" wall aluminum tubing, two 3" lengths of 2" .5 wall tubing, a 36" 3/4" 303 stainless shaft, 2ft of 7/8" .065" steel tubing for handle, 5 x 8 x 1/8" plate and 2 x 2 square tubing for my motor mount.
i attached a crude drawing(i have a better one with dimentions drawn on deltacad if anyones interested) of the box and shaft setup. comments and crtique apreciated. thanks in advance.---tom

 

another crude drawing

 

lower half of mount

 

Just wondering if anybody has one of these motors or longtail or outboard on a stealth boat, and not on the factory motor mount for the stealth boat. If so how did you attatch to the boat if so can you please attatch a pic to. I starting to build a surface drive for one thanks Also one more ? is what size of pulleys did run on this motor if you dont mind me asking

 

anybody seen this? 18 mph with 5hp and 3900 rpm. i gotta se if i can get one of those props.

 

The copperhead just hit the internet last week. It's a nice looking motor from what I can see. They're still working on the website and getting more info out there. I too am interested in thier prop. :thumbsup:

Erich

 

Just out of curiousity, where are you located? The background in those pics look similar to the backgrounds in our ND pics

I,m actually located in Northern California

That copperhead motor is pretty impressive. I wonder which Hopkins propeller there running or of its a special prop they don't have listed under there Louisiana Mud Buster Props? Anyways here is a link to Hopkins mud buster props http://www.hopkinspropeller.com/mudprops/

Tom I,m Glad to see that you decided to take the plunge and start building. I like your design with the bushing it simple and cheap i just wonder how long the one on the prop end will last with the lock collar pushing against it all the time, but building these motors is definitely a process of trial and error. Did you go with the .5in wall tubing so the locking collar would fit in the 2" tube cause that is really thick tubing. another question I had was how are you planning the keep the seals in place.

Erich the motor won't pull it own fuel so I used a Walbro fuel pump. The GX 200 engine is used by kart racers so the are tons of aftermarket parts, like the top plate that mounts where the fuel tank used to be, the fuel pump is mounted on that plate.

00buckhunting check out this link to Utah marsh motors for a pic of a longtail mounted to a stealth http://www.utahmarshmotors.com/Utah_Marsh_Motors_-_Feature.php. The outside diameter of the pulley on the motor is 3.55in and the driveshaft pulley is 5.15in they are from Mcmaster-Carr.

 

Just out of curiousity, where are you located? The background in those pics look similar to the backgrounds in our ND pics

I,m actually located in Northern California

That copperhead motor is pretty impressive. I wonder which Hopkins propeller there running or of its a special prop they don't have listed under there Louisiana Mud Buster Props? Anyways here is a link to Hopkins mud buster props http://www.hopkinspropeller.com/mudprops/

Tom I,m Glad to see that you decided to take the plunge and start building. I like your design with the bushing it simple and cheap i just wonder how long the one on the prop end will last with the lock collar pushing against it all the time, but building these motors is definitely a process of trial and error. Did you go with the .5in wall tubing so the locking collar would fit in the 2" tube cause that is really thick tubing. another question I had was how are you planning the keep the seals in place.

Erich the motor won't pull it own fuel so I used a Walbro fuel pump. The GX 200 engine is used by kart racers so the are tons of aftermarket parts, like the top plate that mounts where the fuel tank used to be, the fuel pump is mounted on that plate.

00buckhunting check out this link to Utah marsh motors for a pic of a longtail mounted to a stealth http://www.utahmarshmotors.com/Utah_Marsh_Motors_-_Feature.php. The outside diameter of the pulley on the motor is 3.55in and the driveshaft pulley is 5.15in they are from Mcmaster-Carr.

Thanks for the clarificaiton on the fuel pump! :thumbsup:

I also agree with you that 0.5in wall tube is really thick and not needed for strength requirements. I'd save the weight and go with a thinner wall and pay to have some minor machining done instead. :wink:

Erich

 

im using flange bushings to handle the thrust. they have a 1-1/4" face. the tubing i have is aluminum. sizes were picked for cleanence of the collars and to fit the seals i will be using.
i found some 3/4" id x 1-1/2"od seals for a briggs and stratton pto shaft on ebay. they should be easy to find if i have to replace them and i figured these would be heavy duty and can be tapped into place with a mallat since the outside is brass and made to do so.
one of the 2" diameter peices will be welded to the front cover and braced. the 1-1/2" tube will mount inside that with set screws.
i will post some pictures after my camera batteries are charged.

 

shaft assembly and upper motor mount.

 

Tom,

Looks like you're moving right along!

One question about your 1-1/2" x 1/2" walled tube, how are you going to fit your 3/4 shaft in there? 1-1/2" minus (2 x 1/2") equals 1/2", which doesn't leave room for your 3/4" shaft. :huh:

Erich

 

my bad. the 1-1/2" tubing is actual 1/4" wall. the inside diameter is 1", the same size as my bushings.
i will have to ream the i.d. of bushings a little since the shaft is a tight fit. i should have checked them before i put them in,but i was too exited when i got out of work and the material was here. they were tight in the tube too. i had to bang them in with a 2 x 4. i dont think ill need set screws.

 

my bad. the 1-1/2" tubing is actual 1/4" wall. the inside diameter is 1", the same size as my bushings.
i will have to ream the i.d. of bushings a little since the shaft is a tight fit. i should have checked them before i put them in,but i was too exited when i got out of work and the material was here. they were tight in the tube too. i had to bang them in with a 2 x 4. i dont think ill need set screws.

Ahhh, that will work! 1/4" wall will be a lot lighter as well. :yes:

Erich

 

Tom it sounds like your moving right along, press fit on the bushing that is great. I've attached a video of my motor running on the canvasback it really likes the shallow areas speeds up by almost 2 mph. http://s1014.photobucket.com/albums...om/albums/af261/smallboat_2009/Finished Motor/?action=view&current=PC290386.flv Now I need to make a prop gaurd so I quit smashing it against rocks when running the shallows. Sure do wonder how those guys at copperhead are getting 18 mph out of a stock motor. Think I might have to try gearing down and running the 10x8 surface drive prop. I had been thinking about saving it to use with the honda GX390 motor i got of ebay that has electric start but I think that setup would be to heavy for the canvasback.

 

motostar929 has the best surface drive ive seen they are even betterlooking in person plus there made out of aluminum his boats are pretty sweet also im going to try to get a match pair this year if money isnt scarce

 

making slow but steady progress. reamed the bushings out to give about .010" clearence on the shaft and put the grease/clloar/seal housings on. my son helped.

 

Looking good!

How long is that whole assembly? Have you figured out the distance between the top and bottom pulley yet? I've been wondering how to decided how deep the shaft should be in the water.

Erich

 

thanks.
the shaft is 36" long, but will be cut down to final size after its threaded and the key slot is put in.
from housing end to housing end is 27"
the seals i got are not tight on the shaft so im thinking of making some locking collars with built in sleaves.
im not sure exactly how deep the box should be either but i figure it should be out of the water when the boats on plane.
the box i have is 5x3x24".
there is a program online to figure out was length belt you need.

 

Odd your first seal didn't work. Can you not find a seal that fits your shaft diameter? It seems to me that a true shaft will have better tolerances than a locking collar. :huh:

Check out McMaster-Carr or MSC for a seal that might fit the shaft perfectly. :thumbsup:

Erich

 

Take a look at this seal and see if it would work http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRI...x.aspxopagename=shopmainPcircularid=15382Pstoreid=1040626Ppagenumber=3776Pmode=

Erich

 

i saw that one. it will probably be my best bet.
im soaking the ones i got now in oil. hopefully they'll swell up a little. might try the old brake fluid trick.
i.d. is around .770" right now.
i can make the collars myself on a lathe at work if i have to.