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lookin good.... just be sure to support the tube while trailering... my buddy wilgosh didn't... and he used the cast outboard mount too... it split at the top and he dropped his 16hp Vtwin and shorttail setup doing bout 80-90km/h....
I keep my 1232/6.5hp on a tilt n' load utility trailer backwards with the tube strapped down to the trailer tongue. also makes it easier to unload into a ditch or creek... just tilt trailer bed, and kick the boat in... I load it nose first then spin it later on the trailer. actually the same buddy who dropped his motor tried putting his into the same mud hole as me.. but transom first... the transom dug in and he had to drag it off and pull the trailer out from under it.. then try to turn it around and get the nose pointing up the creek... not as bad if you have reverse I guess.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Well I had some time this morning so I decided to bore my drive tube for the bearings and thread the ends for the locking nuts and end cap. I also made my motor mounts this morning along with the locking nuts and end cap and pressed the seal into the end cap.
 

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That thing is starting to look great. How much hp is that planetary setup rated at and how much hp do you have? I looked at those alot but wouldn't hold the hp I was putting out. Are you running a clutch of any kind or does that planetary setup have neutral?
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Thanks man. Um we work with planetary gears a lot at where I work at I bought a 250 gy6 planetary gear box just to get the gears and a housing then I brought it to work and made the modifications needed to it so it would be able to stand up to the 20 hp motor I'm going to be putting on it. No this preticular gear box doesn't have neutral so I've purchased a clutch for it. On a side note I don't live that far from you in rock hill I live in Spartanburg if you need any help with it I'd be more than happy to assist. To make this kind of set up work you will prob have to run a jack shaft. For this gear box it requires a 19 tooth spline to be cut if you decide to go with this kind of set up when I make mine I can cut you one to if you need it.
 
If you can get that reverse unit setup and working, you will be the man. Yea I see that you are in Spartanburg. I would take you up on that offer but I just ordered a new 1846 gator tail boat and a 35 GTR. That motor already has reverse. I sold my boat but still trying to sell the motor. Good job on the build and keep the pics coming.
 
Gah I wish I had known you were selling your boat
I listed it in the classifieds for a couple of weeks.

I would agree Mudbuddy's are too expensive for what you get. Thats why I went with GatorTail :thumbsup:

Are you the one doing the welding and machining or do you work at a machine shop?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I'm doing the welding and the machining. But I do work at a machine shop. I have a small 7x12 mini lathe at the house but it's nice to be able to work on the bigger stuff at work where the machines have more power so I can machine them quicker. If you ever need anything that you can't do at your house on your set up let me know.
 
I have a 9x20 but wish I had a bigger one sometimes. I will let you know if I have any bigger work. I'm looking to get a welder that will allow me to weld up to .25 aluminum....any suggestions?
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
You'll need a tig welder with gas set up. Aluminum is difficult if you don't really have any experience tig welding. For around the house you could prob get away with an aluminum MIG set up its much easier but it isn't as pretty of a weld. It will still require a gas set up though. A miller or a Lincoln is always a good choice. It will have to be atleast a 240 welder to have the power to weld aluminum. Aluminum requires high heat to weld due to the fact that it dissipates heat so rapidly.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
The forward reverse gear box I chose was set up for chain drive but I didn't want that so I took and I made a pulley that would mount up the to planetary gear box so it can be belt driven. My bar of 304 series stainless steel also came in so ill begin turning my drive shaft and threading it today.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Here is the drive shaft I made out of 304 series stainless steel. It's essentially done other than I think I'm going to remove some material out of the middle for weight reduction purposes. The entire shaft was turned between centers so all diameters would run true with each other so it will be perfectly balances the bearing surface were cut .0002 underside of the bearing for a g6 tolorence slip fit.
 

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