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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, is there anything someone wants to see in a small tutorial? Of course I'm a hack, and I have my own method of doing things, but is there something you as a new bird taxidermist just cannot figure out? I would hope that other members wouldn't mind helping. I like seeing pictures of work too, but I also like to share. If some of you who had formal training, and signed a proprietary information contract, I get it, but that's a damn shame if you don't take some time, and give some easy tips or help to those just starting this hobby.

so please ask, and I'll see if I can help?
 

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Let's get one going about "how to fix"....broken bones, missing patches of feathers , pin feathers ,etc... :thumbsup:

I will be finishing a water and mud habitat soon so I can take some pics on each step if I find time
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds good Brian. I have a neat way to fix or actually replace primary feathers, and bones? No problem. Maybe you can show how to deal with missing patches being a taxidermist? As a hobbyist, I know I deal with that lol! Sewing? I could certainly show how I stitch a tear or hole. I take great pride in stitching. As well as shot holes in the head and neck.

Ball rolling, next bird, pictures to follow! And there's no right way to do this a couple pictures and good explanation is nice to see. Cooperation from all the regulars would be appreciated. I can make a post into a sticky, or we can just have a tutorial section, which seems like the best idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I did a small tutorial, but I didn't save it as a sticky. I now do them slightly different, but still "plug" them in to wet apoxie sculpt into a large bored hole on the bird. I can make them much thinner now.

viewtopic.php?f=73&t=223451&p=2037337&hilit=eye+rings#p2037337

I'm sure there's a ,million ways to do them, but I like them, and feel they need to be there for that added touch.

I've heard another method by taking silicone, adding lacquer paint and shooting it out of a syringe around the eye at the feather juncture, and then taking a water-wet paint brush, and painting the bead down to make a wet looking eye ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As you can see, I add a cone bottom that is hardened sculpt. You can see by the pic with the toothpick, that I can make them very thin. I think I improve with every batch. Simply allow it to dry, and then sand to desired thickness with 600 grit sand paper. Yes, it's attached to the eye.

On the black bellied, you can see the ring. Perfect? Nope. But better than a crusty dry eyelid in my opinion.
 

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Duck Nasty said:
I could really use the pinfeather tutorial. How about one on injecting feet.
On pin feathers, a ton of cussing and things being thrown against the wall is a good way to deal with them :tongue:
I tend to slightly shorten the neck to get some extra skin to maneuver as needed when arranging the thin areas. I also inject a little caulk under the chin into the neck. This seems to allow for more uniform preening and pinning problematic areas.

Feet injection....I use Masters Blend and 1oz 25-26 gauge syringes. I suck 1/2 a syringe full of A and then another 1/2 of B. Shake a few times then inject each toe and leg around the joints until everything is plump as wanted. I give it about a minute or so before wiping them down with either thinner or acetone to wash off any leakage. Some people insert T pins into each injection hole bit with needles as small as I use the leakage is minimal. (Note: Master's Blend needs to be kept in the frig to extend time before it sets up. If you use it at room temperature you better move like lightning or own stock in syringes )
Some folks inject A and then B separately into the the feet but I am afraid of a mess if they don't mix properly.
 

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duxrus said:
Duck Nasty said:
I could really use the pinfeather tutorial. How about one on injecting feet.
On pin feathers, a ton of cussing and things being thrown against the wall is a good way to deal with them :tongue:
I tend to slightly shorten the neck to get some extra skin to maneuver as needed when arranging the thin areas. I also inject a little caulk under the chin into the neck. This seems to allow for more uniform preening and pinning problematic areas.

Feet injection....I use Masters Blend and 1oz 25-26 gauge syringes. I suck 1/2 a syringe full of A and then another 1/2 of B. Shake a few times then inject each toe and leg around the joints until everything is plump as wanted. I give it about a minute or so before wiping them down with either thinner or acetone to wash off any leakage. Some people insert T pins into each injection hole bit with needles as small as I use the leakage is minimal. (Note: Master's Blend needs to be kept in the frig to extend time before it sets up. If you use it at room temperature you better move like lightning or own stock in syringes )
Some folks inject A and then B separately into the the feet but I am afraid of a mess if they don't mix properly.
Looks like I need to get some masters blend. I have been injecting them with silicone and it hasn't been working well. I put 3.5 ml of it in each foot and it still seems to shrivel up.

What about pins on the body. Just tons preening
 

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I pin the eyes on all birds. I also add one in the neck so as I work nothing can un-adjust. On standing birds I do not wire the wings so I use one pin in each shoulder to hold them until the caulk dries. Then I just clip it off.

Every once in awhile you will get a few feathers that will not do as you want to a few pins and a small piece of carding might be used to hold them while drying.

I used to pin feet on standing birds (still do on occasion) but now just use tape. Saves time of having to repair the small pin holes.

Pete mentioned pinning the flight web so I am sure he can shed some light on that. I don't go that route
 
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