If the Bore Brite is the same stuff I tried several years ago, throw it away.
(Is it the mineral oil and crushed walnut hulls?)

Hint: put a light coat of RemOil on every metal part, then wipe it off....that's all you need to know about lubricating your autoloader. Some guys don't like RemOil, but they are the ones who simply used too much. Other guys don't like BreakFree, they probably used too much, too. :biggrin:

 

Totally agree with Mudpack.....too much of any lube allowed to stay in the action is not good. Most top brands should give satisfactory results.
I have both brands but usually use Breakfree for the piston cleaning, spray it on, an old toothbrush works the cleaner into the holes and the inside spring, then wipe the excess off and blow out any remaining with compressed air.
My pistons only get that type cleaning after a hundred rounds or so.....and that may be considered OCD.

 

Sounds easy!

How often do you clean your active gas system?
How do you clean inside of the piston?

 

The gas system on my X2 is the same as on the X3/Silver. About once a year I will let the gas piston soak in Hoppe's Solvent for a day or two. I have an old toothbrush that I use to scrub the inside and out. After I'll spray it down with brake cleaner and let it dry. I don't apply any oil to the piston itself. The rest of the parts get a light spray of rem oil that I then wipe down to make sure there's not any excessive residue.

 

Do any of you guys put a layer of Remoil on your barrels?

 

Many will disagree, saying it is overkill but a good practice to get into is to clean your gun after every hunt or at least every hunting trip (in the case of a long weekend's hunt). Cleaning a shotgun not only provides top performance of the gun itself but gives you an opportunity to inspect the moving parts for wear or damage and either repair or replace prior to a total breakdown in the blind...plus it is much easier and faster to clean a day or weekend's worth of gunk from a gun then an entire year's worth.

For the piston some solvent and a toothbrush is a good way to remove the carbon buildup...but like ajmorell mentioned, do not lubricate the piston itself as that attracts more gunk and can cause failure. To clean the mag tube the piston slides on I use solvent and a soft brass brush to remove the carbon...you want this as clean & shiny (polished look if possible) as you can get it for the gun to work at 100%. I also use a tiny dab of tetra gun grease on the internal sliding parts (receiver grooves and bolt tabs) and a light wiping with good gun oil on other parts. Clean the trigger group very well and lightly lubricate before reinstalling.

The brand of other lubricants are up to your preference and hunting conditions (if you are hunting in near or sub zero conditions a dry, graphite lube is good as it won't freeze up). But remember that most shotguns need just a bit of lube- do not get too heavy with it. Also do not forget to remove and clean the choke tube and the threads of the barrel...and use some choke tube lube before reinstalling it. If you fail to do this you'll probably wind up as one of the hundreds of threads on here about stuck choke tubes. When finished simply wipe the metal parts down with a cotton rag with a bit of good gun oil to prevent fingerprint rust spots and you're good to go (wipe the lower part of the barrel down before reinstalling the forearm).

 

I tear my Gold down and clean it completely, including magazine spring and recoil spring twice a season. I clean the outside of the magazine tube, the bore, the bolt and receiver, and the trigger group about every 2 boxes of shells which is about every 5-6 hunts.
You'd be surprised at how much junk...grass, seeds, twigs, cattail fluff, etc....gets inside the gun during several duck hunts.

 

How often should i clean inside the magazine tube?
Should I put oil inside the magazine tube?

How often should i clean the trigger group?
What kind of cleaners should i use to clean the trigger group?

 

How often should i clean inside the magazine tube?
Should I put oil inside the magazine tube?

How often should i clean the trigger group?
What kind of cleaners should i use to clean the trigger group?

I clean the mag tube 1-2 times a season. As far as oiling it, I will do like I do with a lot of the other components and spray some Rem Oil down the tube and then wipe it clean.

I use brake cleaner on my trigger group. I've taken it completely apart before but that can be a disaster trying to get it reassembled right.

 

Can i use Rem Action Cleaner on the trigger group?

 

I'm not familiar with that stuff, brake cleaner is cheap and you can get it anywhere

 

I really appreciate your advice.
I really want to know how to clean this gun thoroughly.
can you please help me with the following questions?

After using Brake cleaner on your trigger group, what kind of oil do you use on the trigger group?

What do you use to clean the Bolt/Bolt slide?

Should you clean the rubber seal inside the gas bracket?
If so, what do you use to clean it with and do you oil it?

How do you clean those little holes in the gas bracket (gas ports)

What do you use to clean inside the Barrel?

What kind of oil do you use outside the barrel?

What do you use to clean the sleeve bar spring?
Do you oil the spring?

 

Tim, I'll post more details tomorrow when I get to a computer. If you want I can post details with pictures later this week after I go hunting

 

I would really appreciate that.

Thank you!

 

Some guys don't like RemOil

I'm one of those guys . . . well, sorta. I don't like remoil on the action bars on my autoloaders. Love it for general purpose clean/lube, but I've found that I get more bang for my buck out of lighter oils, particularly in cold weather. It isn't that it gums up, its just that it doesn't seem like it lasts as long. Moreover, browning forwarded a flyer to my office several years ago specifically recommending against using heavy oil like remoil on the bolt rails. Essentially, the flyer said that they had received some complaints about failures to cycle in the field, and recommended a couple of drops of light oil on the rails periodically to keep the gun running smooth.

As far as cleaning, I simply remove the barrel, clean the mag tube, gas piston, and the retaining ring on the barrel, bore-snake the barrel, clean & lube the bolt & rails, and put it back together. They're really a low maintenance gun, although they certainly require more attention than do the short-recoil guns like benellis and the old-school brownings.

Good luck.

 

Some guys don't like RemOil

I'm one of those guys . . . well, sorta. I don't like remoil on the action bars on my autoloaders. Love it for general purpose clean/lube, but I've found that I get more bang for my buck out of lighter oils, particularly in cold weather. It isn't that it gums up, its just that it doesn't seem like it lasts as long. Moreover, browning forwarded a flyer to my office several years ago specifically recommending against using heavy oil like remoil on the bolt rails. Essentially, the flyer said that they had received some complaints about failures to cycle in the field, and recommended a couple of drops of light oil on the rails periodically to keep the gun running smooth.

As far as cleaning, I simply remove the barrel, clean the mag tube, gas piston, and the retaining ring on the barrel, bore-snake the barrel, clean & lube the bolt & rails, and put it back together. They're really a low maintenance gun, although they certainly require more attention than do the short-recoil guns like benellis and the old-school brownings.

Good luck.

What brand of light oil do you use?

 

Beretta, mainly.

 

OK.. Now im more confused than ever!

I just spoke to a tech from Browning.

He said to spray the Trigger group and bolt with Breakfree CLP.
He also said to clean the mag tube and gas piston with a cloth.
He said never use oil on the mag tube, the mag tube spring or the gas piston.
He said never use solvent on the gas piston.
He said clean the gas ports with a tooth pick or a nylon brush.
He said use a thin layer of oil on the barrel.

Being a dummy, i allready used a layer of rem oil on the mag tube and on the gas piston. How should i go about cleaning it off?

Also, If i use Breakfree CLP do i have to add oil after or does this act as a cleaner/oil all in one?

 

I'm sure they have their reasons for suggesting what they do, but here is step by step how I clean my SX2 and how I've been doing it for 5 years with no issue yet. I clean it like this after every outing (unless I don't do any shooting, then I just wipe it down).

1-Remove magazine cap, forearm, barrel, gas piston, plastic piston follower (not sure exactly what it's called), and lastly the spring behind it.

2- Release the bolt (do it slowly), pull the bolt handle out (it's on a detent, it should just pull straight out), and push the bolt assembly out

3-Pull the trigger mechanism out by pushing the 2 pins through

4-Spray down the trigger group with brake cleaner, let dry (should dry pretty quickly)

5-Wet a cleaning patch with hoppe's powder solvent and run it down the barrel

6-Brush the barrel out with a brass brush on a cleaning rod

7-Swab the barrel with cleaning patches until pretty much no residue is left

8-Wet an old toothbrush/nylon brush of some sort in powder solvent, scrub the gas piston inside and out. If I'm feeling really ambitious sometimes I will use a q-tip to clean the ports on the piston but that's unnecessary. Dry it with a clean rag when you're done.

9-Clean the mag tube really well. I start with wiping it down with powder solvent then use steel wool to get the powder burn off of it, you can use high grit sandpaper too, in the 1500-2000 grit range but I prefer steel wool

10-Clean the residue off the plastic piston follower and the inside of the forearm piece

11-Clean out the inside of the action, I use either powder solvent soaked rag or brake cleaner, both work pretty well. Also clean the bolt pieces as best you can.

12-Wipe out the action and the bolt with a dry rag, spray lightly with oil and wipe it out so there's no residue on them.

13-Replace the trigger assembly back into the action

14-Put the bolt back into the action. Be sure to line up the bar on the back with the cup that sits on the end of the action spring. Put the bolt handle back in and lock the bolt back

15-Install the spring, plastic follower, piston and barrel followed by the forearm and mag cap.

*My SX2 is camo so I don't apply any oil to the outside of it. On my guns that are blued I will lightly spray/wipe down the outside of them with some oil to remove finger prints and to give them a little corrosion resistance.

 

Thanks Andy, i really apprieciate you taking your time to help me out.

So you dont oil your mag tube or gas piston?
By the way, What kind of oil do you use on your bolt and rails?

 

Nope, I run them dry. I use remoil in an aerosol can for everything else, but only because its all Walmart had

 

I use remoil in an aerosol can for everything else, but only because its all Walmart had

What oils would you use on the bolt and rails if you had access to it?

 

I use remoil in an aerosol can for everything else, but only because its all Walmart had

What oils would you use on the bolt and rails if you had access to it?

:huh: I don't really know. I've been using the same can of remoil forever it seems like. I would probably get something from Hoppe's, they seem to put out a good product. Their Elite line is good, albeit a little pricey.

 

How about Hoppes #9 gun oil?

 

Is that the liquid stuff in the orange bottle? I have a couple things of it but I don't use it on my guns, I actually have found it's really good as a lube for sharpening knives. It just looks like plain ol "white oil" to me, I don't know that there is anything special about it. You might try it, but it seems a little too thick for my liking. If there's an aerosol version it might apply a little thinner